Riverside Hang, Short Aproach, All Year Access

Trip Overview

1. Why

Riverside hanging, year round access, and challenging well-protected routes.

2. Cons

Some litter, broken glass at times and graffiti that could be considered a pro.

3. Consider

The approach is short but there is a little class 3-4 scramble section. So tiny tots and elderly may have a harder time accessing. Pack out what you pack in, and if you don’t mind picking up other’s trash it’s much appreciated! It seems like it was or maybe still is a party spot for local kids.

Chapter 1: River Run (5.10 variation)

This will always have a special place in my heart as the first outdoor lead climb. Not because it was a classic, or even that interesting at all, but simply the first. To be fair, it isn’t tall enough to be interesting… I whisper out of earshot of the Thin Face. It’s something that could almost be found somewhere like Castle Rock overlooking Tahoe… if only it were 50-60 feet taller. The same could be said for the varying hand to finger crack around the corner, where – Can you guess? – I lead my first trad climb. It is another morsel of what could’ve been a classic route on another crag with a steeper, longer approach.

Chapter 2: Thin Face

For a novice albeit spirited climber like myself, the thin face is a riveting route. Every crispy, no crimpy, well also crispy move is devastatingly good. The small flakes so brittle in feel but have a slight give when hanging full weight on them. It felt unnerving until another local said “I can’t believe those little bendy flakes are still there. It’s exactly the same as it was 20 years ago!”. 

There is very little time or place to rest. It begs to be climbed quickly and efficiently. Perhaps it’s the proximity to my town, the short approach, and the “just out of reach” grade, that make this the route I’ve climbed more than any other. In fact my fall count on the Thin Face may add up to more than the sum of all my other whippers on any crag.